Backstory: While I was a fly-fishing guide in South Korea, I guided numerous US military folks and a few had stars on their epaulettes. With one of those connections, I was able to get in touch with a Korean unit serving on the DMZ and wrangle permission to visit the Dragon Moors, a rare alpine wetland. As far as I know, I’m the only journalist to ever visit the place.This story appeared in the Spring 2008 issue of Earth Island Journal. Click the title below to read it.